MOTU BACKLIT DISPLAY FAILURE (TWICE)

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Discussion related to installation, configuration and use of MOTU hardware such as MIDI interfaces, audio interfaces, etc. with Windows
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migranpedal
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:24 pm
Primary DAW OS: MacOS
Location: La Plata, Argentina

MOTU BACKLIT DISPLAY FAILURE (TWICE)

Post by migranpedal »

This is my second backlit display issue with Motu.

Bought my 1st FW 828MK2 new in 2003. After a year of use my display went dark. Contacted Motu customer service, they offered a Refurbished unit (same cosmetic condition as mine for $80). They do not offer spare parts, so I sent them my MK2.

the refurbished unit display has now started to blink from high intensity green to dark green so I suppose its just a matter of time before I get in the dark again.

I´ve read a few posts here were the traveller unit was doing the same.

There is a guy who apparently self repaired his. I´ll be happy to post his guidelines here for everyone who gets dark displays. All you need is a 3mm HIGH BRIGHTNESS green LED from your local electronics store!!
Just so we can be prepared!! I´m not wasting another $80 plus shipping and custom fees!!! :shake:
Last edited by migranpedal on Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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migranpedal
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:24 pm
Primary DAW OS: MacOS
Location: La Plata, Argentina

Re: MOTU BACKLIT DISPLAY FAILURE (TWICE)

Post by migranpedal »

Just a thought: Has Motu changed the way they´re building their displays?? If not, maybe its time for a redesign. Lifespan is rather on the short side from what I see.
I have old gear such as the original Alesis Quadraverb 1989 (circa) and the display is working like the first day.
Last edited by migranpedal on Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:13 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
migranpedal
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:24 pm
Primary DAW OS: MacOS
Location: La Plata, Argentina

Re: MOTU BACKLIT DISPLAY FAILURE (TWICE)

Post by migranpedal »

Took this from the Gearslutz forum, looks pretty tricky to me but if I get blacked out again I think I`ll give it a try at least.

Don't start this if you haven't got some technical and soldering skills.

Remove the front panel from the unit. Don't forget the little srews next to the mic sockets and a nasty hook on the circuit board that locks the two boards together. Unplug the two plugs from the MAIN BOARD, not from the front. This plug has got less pins than holes, so you could make a mistake here, plugging it in again (like I did). Work on a clean surface, to prevent dust building up behind the perspex front. Remove the display (note that one screw has a plastic washer). Remove the solder on the two contacts, next to the display with a solder sucker, or with solder litze. Break away the very small strip with the smd led on it, by pulling on the desoldered wires. This is glued onto the side of a perspex sheet, that runs under the display. Buy a 3mm HIGH BRIGHTNESS green LED from your local electronics store. The green means the light, not the colour of the plastic. It should set you back close to US$5.00 , don't use a normal one. Cut off the shortest leg to 10-12mm (half an inch) and bend it 90 degrees. Tack this short leg to the bottom contact, making shure, the front of the led shines into the middle hole (indent) of the perspex plate under the display. You can see this by lifting the tin foil a bit. If it fits, cut off the other leg and solder it to the top contact. Stick a piece of black tape over the led to prevent the light bleeding into the neighbouring display. Assemble in reverse order.
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