Which driver?

[DocBernard]

I am running Yosemite 10.10.1 and setting up the new Macbook to do some 5.1 work. So I am migrating my 828 MkII over to use it.

Now I have been reading here, that the Universal Audio Installer build 1.6.59644 will work......... can someone with the same set up please confirm? MOTU's site only mentions up to OS 10.9, as does the readme file.

Thanks, everyone!

Doc

[mikehalloran]

Now I have been reading here, that the Universal Audio Installer build 1.6.59644 will work

It might be possible.

The latest is MOTU Audio Installer 1.6.64254. It was released a few days after Yosemite and works for me in OS 10.10.3.

http://www.motu.com/download – click on Download when you see MOTU Audio Installer.

With the issues in 10.10.1, an update to the current build is highly recommended. The Combo Updater is here:
https://support.apple.com/kb/DL1804?locale=en_US

If you have installed the recent Remote Client update, there's a chance that the Combo won't work. In that case, you will need to update through the App Store.

[DocBernard]

Copy, thanks. I will give it a try.

[monkey man]

Don't worry mate. 'Cause you're on a Mac, MOTU's latest drivers will almost certainly do the trick.

They're typically rock-solid (on the Mac at least), and as Mike suggested, the company keeps pace with OS developments very well indeed.

[realizment]

Don't worry mate. 'Cause you're on a Mac, MOTU's latest drivers will almost certainly do the trick.

They're typically rock-solid (on the Mac at least), and as Mike suggested, the company keeps pace with OS developments very well indeed.

Hmm doesn't seem to be that simple for me.. Can you have a look here and maybe provide suggestion please?

http://www.motunation.com/forum/viewtop ... =2&t=59871

[mikehalloran]

Don't worry mate. 'Cause you're on a Mac, MOTU's latest drivers will almost certainly do the trick.

They're typically rock-solid (on the Mac at least), and as Mike suggested, the company keeps pace with OS developments very well indeed.

Hmm doesn't seem to be that simple for me.. Can you have a look here and maybe provide suggestion please?

http://www.motunation.com/forum/viewtop ... =2&t=59871

The symptoms you describe have nothing to do with Yosemite or drivers. It should still work in standalone mode.

The newest of these is eight years old. Try a default reset.
http://www.motu.com/techsupport/technotes/reset

Then read the manual. Go to page 53 and see if the controls behave.
http://www.motu.com/techsupport/manuals

If that doesn't bring it back to life, you have a unit that is no longer working. I would open it up and burnish the internal connectors by disconnecting and reconnecting each three times. This works a lot more often than you might think. Check for obvious bad solder joints and bulging capacitors. The FW port can go bad on these but the lights and switches will still work in that case.

According to others, MOTU no longer offers a rebuilt exchange program for these. Neither do they publish schematics nor a parts list. There are older threads on replacing the display panel but that doesn't sound like your problem.

I have one of the last of these made. It's still working well.

[realizment]

Don't worry mate. 'Cause you're on a Mac, MOTU's latest drivers will almost certainly do the trick.

They're typically rock-solid (on the Mac at least), and as Mike suggested, the company keeps pace with OS developments very well indeed.

Hmm doesn't seem to be that simple for me.. Can you have a look here and maybe provide suggestion please?

http://www.motunation.com/forum/viewtop ... =2&t=59871

The symptoms you describe have nothing to do with Yosemite or drivers. It should still work in standalone mode.

The newest of these is eight years old. Try a default reset.
http://www.motu.com/techsupport/technotes/reset

Then read the manual. Go to page 53 and see if the controls behave.
http://www.motu.com/techsupport/manuals

If that doesn't bring it back to life, you have a unit that is no longer working. I would open it up and burnish the internal connectors by disconnecting and reconnecting each three times. This works a lot more often than you might think. Check for obvious bad solder joints and bulging capacitors. The FW port can go bad on these but the lights and switches will still work in that case.

According to others, MOTU no longer offers a rebuilt exchange program for these. Neither do they publish schematics nor a parts list. There are older threads on replacing the display panel but that doesn't sound like your problem.

I have one of the last of these made. It's still working well.

Thank you. So I tried the reset and the button doesn't seem to be working. Whats strange is that if I hold down cursor while turning the unit on it will go into firmware update mode which would suggest buttons are working no?

Any other ideas for kick-starting this thing?

[mikehalloran]

Open it up and burnish all the connectors as I suggested earlier.

Disconnect the ribbon connectors, any others, remove the ICs from their sockets and put them back in. Do this one piece at a time. If this works, buy a can of DeOxIt and do it again – not necessary in the short term but the next owner will likely ger many more years of use if you do.

Part of it wants to work. Unfortunately, this is also a symptom of a bad motherboard. Really, you have nothing to lose. I have brought over a hundred pieces of gear back to life this way. The tiniest – I mean the tiniest bit of corrosion anywhere in the chain can cause a good piece of gear to fail.

Since it has been unused a long time, this is the most likely culprit.

[realizment]

Open it up and burnish all the connectors as I suggested earlier.

Disconnect the ribbon connectors, any others, remove the ICs from their sockets and put them back in. Do this one piece at a time. If this works, buy a can of DeOxIt and do it again – not necessary in the short term but the next owner will likely ger many more years of use if you do.

Part of it wants to work. Unfortunately, this is also a symptom of a bad motherboard. Really, you have nothing to lose. I have brought over a hundred pieces of gear back to life this way. The tiniest – I mean the tiniest bit of corrosion anywhere in the chain can cause a good piece of gear to fail.

Since it has been unused a long time, this is the most likely culprit.

Thanks so much for the advice. What do you recommended to use to do that I haven't done anything like before.

Thanks

[mikehalloran]

A Phillips 2 screwdriver to remove the top cover. Your fingers for most of the connectors. Some are more easily done with long nosed pliers or a flat blade screwdriver to begin separation. Everything goes together with fingers until you put the cover back on.

Since you've not done this, examine each connector first to see how it comes apart before you make the attempt.

[cuttime]

I strongly recommend a chip puller or something similar as it is often way too easy to pull connectors and bend the contacts beyond all repair.

[realizment]

Thanks guys!

[realizment]

A Phillips 2 screwdriver to remove the top cover. Your fingers for most of the connectors. Some are more easily done with long nosed pliers or a flat blade screwdriver to begin separation. Everything goes together with fingers until you put the cover back on.

Since you've not done this, examine each connector first to see how it comes apart before you make the attempt.

I done as suggested with the ribbons and no luck.. what are the IC's? I dont see anything else that can disconnected there ? Any more ideas guys thanks again for help!