1296 fan noise.

[JeffB]

Has anyone tried running a 1296 with the fan disconnected?

How hot does this thing get?

[1nput0utput]

It's probably not a good idea to disconnect the fan altogether, but you could certainly replace it with a quieter one. I've heard of people doing that to their 1296s and HD192s.

[Shooshie]

Do a little research and you can come up with a very quiet fan. I've done it but can't remember the model. I've replaced my fan twice. One problem. MOTU did not design this thing to be replaced by the consumer. There are a LOT of screws. I mean on the order of about 80 or so. It's no walk in the park. If you have an electric screwdriver it may make it easier if it has a sharp philips blade. Expect to spend an hour or two doing it. Seems like getting the fan out and another in is not easy, either, and that I had to compromise the fan in some way, but it worked. Anyway, just do it.

Shooshie

[Shooshie]

I found this from a while back:

Older 1296s may have a Titan TFD-501005C (5VDC, 0.14A) fan. Interfaces that have been serviced more recently have a TFD-5010M05C.

Please be aware that replacing the fan in a 1296 can be quite difficult due to the arrangement of internal components. It is important to consider that since the 1296 is a particularly old legacy interface model, it is becoming increasingly difficult to source replacement parts for broken units. If your 1296 is damaged while you attempt to replace the fan, it may not be possible for MOTU to service the interface. However, if the interface's only malfunction is a faulty fan, we can issue a return authorization for it now so that it can be serviced or replaced. Since the interface is outside the warranty period, there would be a flat fee of $79.95 for this service.

If you do choose to replace the 1296's fan, this is the most efficient method that I have found:

1. Turn off the interface, and disconnect all cables from the back panel. Remove the 52 small screws that attach the XLR jacks to the back panel. Then remove the two medium screws from the bottom edge of the back panel. Remove the two medium screws from the top edge of the front panel. Finally, remove the six large screws from the side panels (three on each side).

2. The top case is now free of the bottom case. To remove the top case, place the interface with the back panel towards you. Grasp the top case behind the rack ears on both sides. Tilt the front edge of the top case up, and then slide the top case back towards you. As you do this, watch the System Word input and output connectors. Once the back panel has cleared these connectors, tilt the top case the rest of the way so that it rests in a vertical position. Be careful not to move the top case too far away from the bottom case because the AES Word input is attached to the main PCB with a ribbon cable.

3. Touch the exposed metal of the inside side panel to discharge any static electricity. There are two large circuit boards, one mounted above the other on metal standoffs. Remove the screws that secure the upper PCB to the standoffs.

4. The upper PCB is now free of the lower PCB. Lift the upper PCB up and toward the back panel. Be careful not to force the upper PCB away from the lower PCB because they are attached by a ribbon cable. The upper PCB can be laid against the rear panel of the case with the component side down.

5. Now the 1296's fan can be accessed. Disconnect the power cable connector from the lower PCB. Remove the four screws that attach the fan to the side panel of the case. Replace it with an identical or similar model.

6. To reassemble the 1296, follow the previous steps in reverse order. First, attach the new fan to the side panel of the case, and connect the power cable to the fan power socket on the lower PCB. Then place the upper PCB back on the metal standoffs. Replace the screws that secure the upper PCB to the standoffs.

7. To replace the top cover, first rotate it to the horizontal position. Slide the top cover forward, towards the front of the interface. Make sure that the XLR input jack release buttons clear the holes in the back panel. The top case should be flush against the front panel and both side panels.

8. Replace the remaining screws in reverse order: first the six large screws from the side panels, then the 4 medium screws from the front and back panels, then the 52 small screws that secure the XLR jacks to the back panel.

[JeffB]

Just replaced the fan and it's now whisper quiet. (So quiet I thought it wasn't working at first!)

A procedure not recommended for the short tempered among us!!

[starbearer76]

whatever you do... be sure to match all specs!!! the cfm, the voltage, and the current draw. especially the CFM!! the cfm can be higher but NOT lower. if you screw that part up, you will cause the capacitors inside to dome and leak due to over heating!!!! also... it needs to face the correct direction. it needs to suck the air from inside the unit. if you face it so that it blows air in, it will not circulate right and again... your caps will go bad.

maybe if motu didn't skimp and used hi grade 105c high temp caps they may have gotten away with putting a smaller quieter fan.

sorry motu... your drivers kick ass, but your choice of parts is very walmart like.

[quietlion]

Could anyone please tell me the specs for the 1296 fan. I need to replace mine and MOTU won't tell me what they are because they want me to pay them $99 to do it. I need to know the CFM, the DC Voltage, and the type. I found great fans at the Papst site, but I don't want to tear the 1296 apart to find the specs. Thanks.

[1nput0utput]

Could anyone please tell me the specs for the 1296 fan. I need to replace mine and MOTU won't tell me what they are because they want me to pay them $99 to do it. I need to know the CFM, the DC Voltage, and the type. I found great fans at the Papst site, but I don't want to tear the 1296 apart to find the specs. Thanks.

With this information, I am confident that you could find an exact replacement:

Older 1296s may have a Titan TFD-501005C (5VDC, 0.14A) fan. Interfaces that have been serviced more recently have a TFD-5010M05C.

Google is your friend.

[slogravy]

i sprayed mine with silcone lubricant and it is as quiet as it was when i first bought it . it is simple to do as there is a vetn that is right next to the fan. Just use a tube from the spray nozzle and dont overdo it .

[tgle1977]

thanks to all those that posted here, my 1296 is getting loud so I think I'll have a go round at spray in some air and then lubricating it before i contact those crazy kids in Boston to repair it, As I live in Vancouver i'm fairly loathe to send anything there as they have the Stanley Cup already...

[quietlion]

The one thing that isn't explained in those 1296 dismantling instructions is how to remove the Word Clock input jack—the one thing that is actually bolted onto the back panel. Can anyone tell me how to efficiently remove it without damaging it?

[starbearer76]

don't undo that jack. Take ALL the screws out. Slowly lift the lid off of the chassis and notice that that jack has a grey cable going to the lower pcb board. Unhook that. You lid is now free. Unless you use the AES WORD IN (totally separate thing from the regular word in and out) feel free to not bother reattaching that cable. If you do decide reattach that cable note that you plug in back in the same way you found it. It's not easy putting it back on.