Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
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Discussion related to installation, configuration and use of MOTU hardware such as MIDI interfaces, audio interfaces, etc. for Mac OSX
Discussion related to installation, configuration and use of MOTU hardware such as MIDI interfaces, audio interfaces, etc. for Mac OSX
Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
Hello all.
I am selling my 2408 MKII and sent it off to the buyer here in Norway. The post office decided to be careless and when the unit arrived, three of the ADAT connectors (the inputs and outputs, black "sugarcubes") had been pushed in and had fallen off. The buyer returned it, and now I need to fix it before selling it again.
After taking a closer look, I have decided to have a friend fix it for me (he is a wizard with the soldering). The three pins at the back of the connectors are still attached to the print board, so he needs to unsolder them and attach new connectors. Here comes the problem: The connectors have no specifications written on them. I need this in order to buy new ones (at DigiKey.com). I have asked techsupport at MOTU, but they only tell me to send it in and have it repaired. Way too expensive when I know what to do (they charge 248$, ther connectors cost about 1$ a piece and my friend does it for a beer)
Why they cannot give me this information is a mystery. There is no warranty on it.
So: does anyone know what kind of connectors to buy? Is it a standard ADAT connector? What specifications should it have?
I am selling my 2408 MKII and sent it off to the buyer here in Norway. The post office decided to be careless and when the unit arrived, three of the ADAT connectors (the inputs and outputs, black "sugarcubes") had been pushed in and had fallen off. The buyer returned it, and now I need to fix it before selling it again.
After taking a closer look, I have decided to have a friend fix it for me (he is a wizard with the soldering). The three pins at the back of the connectors are still attached to the print board, so he needs to unsolder them and attach new connectors. Here comes the problem: The connectors have no specifications written on them. I need this in order to buy new ones (at DigiKey.com). I have asked techsupport at MOTU, but they only tell me to send it in and have it repaired. Way too expensive when I know what to do (they charge 248$, ther connectors cost about 1$ a piece and my friend does it for a beer)
Why they cannot give me this information is a mystery. There is no warranty on it.
So: does anyone know what kind of connectors to buy? Is it a standard ADAT connector? What specifications should it have?
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
should be pretty standard PCB mount type. just check the typical sites (mouser.com, farnell, digikey etc...) and compare the data sheets with you own measures, then you should be pretty safe buying. and if in doubt just buy two or three different ones, as they aren´t really expensive...?!
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
Found some here: http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/EU091/P0300.pdf
It is in Fig.2
Think it is the 147. The question is if the voltage is right.
It is in Fig.2
Think it is the 147. The question is if the voltage is right.
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
It's definitely NOT the 147 or 177 as posted on this page. I just recently bought a 2408 with a broken connector and ordered both of these from Digikey and the black plastic support legs are in the wrong spot. The 3 metal pins are close but the legs have to be right since MOTU cuts off the top attachment hole to fit into the rack.
Still looking...???
Still looking...???
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
Okay, hopefully this helps anyone in the future who buys a 2408 used and has trouble with the ADAT connectors. The exact part that MOTU uses is in the DigiKey catalog on the link above (SHARP - GP1FAV30TK0F), BUT DigiKey does not stock them anymore. The only place I could find them is at Farnell in the UK, but I could only find the sister part that has the plastic Shutter Cover over the connector opening (EXACT SAME SPECS & SIZE, but with a cover). I am currently inquiring with Farnell's EXPORT Dept. to see if they will ship a small quantity to the US. I will try to post a follow-up. Here is the part link to Farnell in the UK...
http://uk.farnell.com/sharp/gp1fav31tk0 ... 1FAV31TK0F" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
*If you own a MOTU 2408 and have popped the lid open, you will see that they shaved off the top of all the ADAT connectors so that they would fit inside the rack. That is part of the reason why they break--there is not top attachment for each connector. It all relies on the three plastic legs and the three metal leads that are soldered to the PCB (not very sturdy for pushing an ADAT/Toslink connector in and out hundreds of times.
http://uk.farnell.com/sharp/gp1fav31tk0 ... 1FAV31TK0F" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
*If you own a MOTU 2408 and have popped the lid open, you will see that they shaved off the top of all the ADAT connectors so that they would fit inside the rack. That is part of the reason why they break--there is not top attachment for each connector. It all relies on the three plastic legs and the three metal leads that are soldered to the PCB (not very sturdy for pushing an ADAT/Toslink connector in and out hundreds of times.
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
Just to verify -- I did measure the voltage on my MOTU 2408 where the legs had broken on one of the ADAT connectors and it measured exactly 3 volts--which is why you need to use either the GP1FAV30TK0F or GP1FAV31TK0F (with shutter). The GP1FAV50TK0F & GP1FAV51TK0F are both 5 Volt supply models--too high for MOTU 2408!
Re: Repairing ADAT connectors on a MOTU 2408 MKII
Fantastic. Just ordered the connectors from Farnell (I live in Norway).
Should I get a professional to solder, or will I manage myself? (I am practical, but not very experienced)
Here are pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/asbjornsund ... onnections#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Should I get a professional to solder, or will I manage myself? (I am practical, but not very experienced)
Here are pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/asbjornsund ... onnections#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;