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I need some advice about recording!!!

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:58 pm
by Tom Calan
Hi, I am new here. This is a great board. I could really use some help. I've been using DP for a year as a serious hobbyist, and have recorded around 20 pieces. Most are 10-24 tracks and complex. Here is my problem. No matter what I do, the final piece of music when put in a stereo system sounds FLAT compared with any commercial-grade CD. I've tried panning to extremes, using chorus, reverb, filling in the space with numerous percussion type sounds and effects, I've used the whole frequency range, you name it I've tried it. But no matter what I do, compared to say a smooth jazz type commercial recording, my stuff sounds lifeless. My goal is to figure out how to get that wonderful sense of spaciousness that good recordings have, where you can hear every instrument and sound in a different place, left to right and front to back and the whole room fills up with sound. My music is really good compositionally but the recordings are bad. If anyone knows of a resource, like a web site or course or something, I would seriously appreciate it. I really want to find out why some mediocre recording on the radio with one guitar part fills my room with a sense of width and depth, yet my own recordings with 4 or 6 guitar parts spread across the stereo field sound flat. So if you know of a resource or place to learn, I would really appreciate it. P.S. Weirdly, sometimes (not always, just sometimes) my recordings sound very good in the studio listening to monitors, it's when I take it out of the studio and into any stereo system, car, etc., that it goes flat, bassy, and lifeless. I would gladly hire an expert in the northern virginia area for a day or 2 or 3 to teach me this essential skill if anyone knows of such a person. Thank you.

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 12:38 am
by jarok

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 12:41 am
by Frodo
Hi Tom and Welcome to U-nation:

Mixing is as much art as it is science. The first place to start is where it seems you've already started-- and that is with your favorite commerical recordings. Start a notebook and go into as much detail about what you like about the kick drum on the CD and what you don't like about the kick drum on your mix. Listen to that kick drum again and sort out how it relates to the bass guitar. How much "point" does that kick drum have? How much punch (compression) does that bass guitar have? One thing people often overlook is that a touch of 400-500hz on a kick (just a touch) can bring it to life rather than to have it simply "thud" in the lower registers of the mix. This is hardly a crash course, but just an example of the kind of detailed listening that needs to be done.

EQ: the art of EQ-ing a track is one of balance-- a type of balance you may not typically consider. Let's say you've got several guitars in your mix. Each guitar will have characteristics that are emphasized within a certain bandwidth. Shaping the EQ's for each guitar so that these characteristic frequency peaks dovetail rather than to overlap is part of finding that balance that enables one to use 2-3-4 guitars in a track.

Ambience-- understanding early reflections in reverb really helps define the "space and depth" in a mix". Such early reflections play upon the ear and brain to create the illusion that one instrument is sitting further forward or further back in a mix-- in conjunction with volume and pan, of course. Lots of people record guitars in mono, but short of putting 3-4 mono guitar tracks across the pan spectrum there is some merit to either recording the more chordal guitar tracks in stereo or swapping them out for stereo. This can be done with a variety of plugins, but the idea is rooted in duplicating the track, panning each copy hard left and right-- and then either adding a touch of delay to one side. One might also just send the mono guitar track through a chorus with the subtlest of settings just to give it that "hint" of stereo without actually putting a recognizable chorus into effect. Pan that hard left and right, then put a second guitar (mono?) just left of center with a third guitar (also mono?) right of center. That leaves open your middle for a vocal or a lead guitar, as the case may be.

Those are just some starter suggestions, but there are tremendous resources on this which I'll try to list below.

As for your mixes translating, that is an indication that your monitors are not "true". It might also mean that your listening room is not allowing the best qualities of the monitor from reaching your ears. Reflections, peaks, and null points in your room may be deceptive-- and when you take mixes elsewhere which sound good in your room they won't sound quite right. Perhaps your room cancels out certain low-mids, so you compensate for them only to learn that the low-mids are too loud when played elsewhere.

A good spectrum analyzer will tell the truth about what's going on in your actual mixes, but you will need to first understand the frequency response of your monitors and then tune your room so that those frequencies can be heard as they were intended.

Before spending any money, though, try this experiment. It's going to be a bit of a pain, but it is quite educational: fix one of your current mixes so that it sounds good in your car. That means a lot of running back and forth, but it forces you to really put your ears to work. If you hear too much of one thing and not enough of another, take those notes back into your mixing room and fix them. You'll have to sort of ignore what you hear in your room, so a good set of headphones will be a good reference. Also, using a reference CD track will also help get you going.

Once you've gotten the mix to sound better in the car, look at your notes. There should be a pattern of the adjustments you had to make. This will be valuable information for the sake of fine tuning your room and checking out your monitors.

There are a series of books which start with the title of "Musician's Guide to.." and subtitles of "Recording Vocals", "Recording Drums", "Recording Acoustic Guitar", etc. Hal Leonard Pub. also has at least one or more books entitled "Home Studio Clinic".

There's also "The Recording Engineer's Handbook" and "The Mixing Engineeer's Handbook", and "The Mastering Engineer's Handbook" all by Owsinski, "Sound Advice on Recording and Mixing Guitars" by Bill Gibson, "Handbook for Sound Engineers: The New Audio Cyclopedia" by Glen Ballou ...

Berklee Press has a wad of books on every aspect of the topic. Check them out:
http://www.berkleepress.com/catalog/cat ... egory_id=6

One of my favorite online reference sites is a small dictionary of terms with detailed explanations:
http://www.rane.com/par-a.html

One other important thing I'd recommend-- a second set of experienced ears to help you along the way.

best of luck!

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 5:25 am
by Kellog
I just wanna say to Frodo, that the depth and care you take w/a reply like this is so great. Very nice, thanks... Kelly

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:37 am
by wylie1
Frodo wrote:
One of my favorite online reference sites is a small dictionary of terms with detailed explanations:
http://www.rane.com/par-a.html
Thats one I've never seen before.
Frodo wrote:
One other important thing I'd recommend-- a second set of experienced ears to help you along the way.

best of luck!
Or if your like me a younger set of ears really help
.

tnx to Frodo

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:42 am
by Tom Calan
I just wanted to say thank you for the very detailed reply, Frodo. It gives me a lot of food for thought along with a huge list of books now on order. The main thing on my mind after reading your post is reverb and "early reflection". I use a lot of MIDI modules like the XV5050. I usually use the sounds with the preset effects, because (a) I'm too inexperienced to take the sounds flat and add appropriate effects or maybe too lazy, (b) my computer can't handle more than a handful of DSP effects, and (c) out-of-the-box sounds with effects on them really rock and get my muse going, rather than sounding thin like w/o the effects. However, I have definitely experienced weirdness in my stereo field, such as organs sitting 3 feet in front of a guitarist or more strangely behind me while everything else is in front; instruments that sound good individually but like they're just not in the same "space"; etc. The instruments I have used w/o effects from MIDI modules, that I've added a touch of reverb to (e.g. RenVerb Studio A at around 10 % wet/dry), always sound centered and OK but not "ambient", while the tracks using the MIDI module effects sound fat, deep, and spacious but usually oddly too far back or front or otherwise not in the same room with or in sync with sounds I processed myself in Waves. Suddenly I'm thinking this might all boil down to the early reflections. I think I need to really drill down on learning about reverb a LOT, rather than just messing with the wet/dry mix, and probably need to go back and strip out all of the MIDI module effects as a starting point.

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:48 am
by Phil O
Welcome aboard, Tom. Yeah, Mr. Frodo is "the man" in these parts. I always take his advise very seriously.

But don't cross him. You see, he's got this ring...


Phil

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:17 am
by npatton
Just to emphasize something Frodo said:

I suck at mixing (well Frodo didn't say THAT, but...). I don't even own a pair of monitors yet, so Sennheiser headphones are my main reference for now. (My current work is either my own music or client demos for future recording in a pro studio.) Bass and low mids are always an issue for my mixes, as well as reverb, particularly on vocals.

I have a decent boom box in my house. I know what my favorite recordings sound like on that box. When mixing, I'll burn a reference CD (or even better, CD-RW) and take it in the house and check it out, taking mental notes on what worked and what didn't. Back to the office, then back to the house until I have something I would want to give to my client. Lately, my trips to the house are far fewer as my ears are actually "hearing" more bass and reverb when they actually aren't. I just know it will be there when pop the disc into another player.

Not very scientific, but I'm learning a LOT about mixing, as well as details about reverb, compression and limiting. Someday, I'll have a nice pair of active monitors and an acoustically accurate room, but until $ and time are available, I'm finding workarounds!

BTW, I use an XV-5050 too. Sometimes those FX are vital to the character of a sound, and allow you to play with the right feeling the music needs. Cut FX judiciously. If you can get the same vibe without 'em (especially reverb), get rid of 'em and give yourself more control in your mix. My mixes often suffer from the same "spacial anomalies" when I forget to lose the reverb on some patches (i.e., guitar sitting on my nose while the drums are in a warehouse down the street). Use the computer editor that came with the XV to try trimming some of the fat, or to emulate the space your plugins are creating. Quite often, I find I needed a lot less reverb than my synths were giving me, and my mixes cleaned up exponentially!

Have fun and good luck!
n

follow up question

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:24 am
by Tom Calan
Frodo if you have a moment, can I ask an additional question of you?

When doubling tracks as you described (hard left and right pan, then offsetting the timing a little) approximately how many milliseconds should separate the two tracks to get a subtle stereo double without being too much? On a piece that's 102 bpm I've been trying out 4/480 to 24/480 of a beat. I think this translates to 8-30 milliseconds of offset. In the middle sounds about right to my ear - 12/480 of a beat at 102 bpm, or 15-ish ms. Is that about right or am I being too conservative with the doubling? Is there an "official solution" for routine instrument doubling?

Also, is there any advantage, when doubling, to eq'ing or adjusting the volume of one side (e.g. left) to create some differentiation in the sound, or is the whole idea to have exactly the same sound on both sides?

Thanks...

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:51 am
by grimepoch
The first step I took in mastering my material was buying Ozone from iZotope. No, it's not the end all be all, and won't replace all the things you are learning here (as you will find out), however, as you step through their presets on your master fader, you start understanding how dynamics, spacilizers, EQing, width, limiting and even reverb effect the overall FEEL of the track. You can download the plugin and use it free for like 14 days or something like that.

If you pick something like the Widen and Excite preset, all of a sudden you begin to realize just how much mastering can effect the overall feel of your piece as well. Sure, again, this isn't going to solve panning, leveling, room characteristics and such, but then, once you start playing with the settings in these presets, it opens up a whole new world of understanding on getting what you want out of the speakers.

:)

Re: I need some advice about recording!!!

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 11:38 am
by emulatorloo
Tom Calan wrote:Weirdly, sometimes (not always, just sometimes) my recordings sound very good in the studio listening to monitors, it's when I take it out of the studio and into any stereo system, car, etc., that it goes flat, bassy, and lifeless. I would gladly hire an expert in the northern virginia area for a day or 2 or 3 to teach me this essential skill if anyone knows of such a person. Thank you.
Frodo gave you a great reply.

I would also mention that I put an instance of the Masterworks EQ and the Masterworks Compressor on my Masterfader and that helps a lot in adding that punchy sound. I do a mix, play it back on diff systems and make adjustments ala Frodo's car example.

If you get to the point where you want to spend some money, some mastering software can help too.

Rick mentioned the wonderful OZONE 3 mastering software.

http://www.izotope.com/products/audio/ozone/

I recently got IKMultimedia's T-Racks 24 as part of a software bundle, which emulates a rack of analog mastering gear. I have heard mixed things about it on the net, but I was impressed with what it did to some of my old tracks I had lying around. The bundle included the standalone version. They have a plug-in version too that is more expensive.

I think they may have a downloadable demo:

http://www.t-racks.com/Main.html?prod_TR_24

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:37 pm
by wylie1
emulatorloo: Do you also own OZONE 3?
I was looking for a comparison ,I'm working on a project now that has to go out for mastering.
I've never done any myself but I would like to see how close I can get to the out sourced stuff.
I like what grimepoch said about presets in Ozone.

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:46 pm
by grimepoch
download it and play with it, there is a trial period. For an all in one mastering solution I've yet to see anything compare with it even at twice it's price. Plus, the dithering algorithm inside is absolutely fantastic.

I'm still going to get my CD mastered by someone else who does that alone for a living :) But for my work, and testing at local clubs and such, I've no complains. I get 90% of the way there. They'll give me that last 10% and maybe an extra 5% when I get there ;P

Re: tnx to Frodo

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 3:00 pm
by Frodo
You guys are way too kind!! All of you have stepped up to the plate to help other members including myself, and this is something that I will never take for granted-- so while we are taking on an "attitude of gratitude", I'll just say thanks right back!!
Tom Calan wrote:I just wanted to say thank you for the very detailed reply, Frodo. It gives me a lot of food for thought along with a huge list of books now on order.
Oh, the reading never ends. The more you learn, the more you realize that there is more to learn.

One VERY general rule or trick is that if you want something like your organ sitting "behind" the guitar, scoop out some of the mids with EQ to create a "nest", so to speak, for the guitar to sit in. It sounds as if your organ mids are competing with your guitar mids. Of course, the guitar will naturally have more sparkle, so listen to frequencies around 3-4k and play with boosts or cuts in increments of 2dB to see what improves or what does more harm than good.

If you happen to have an organ patch or plugin like B4 with drawbars, that's the best way to reshape the sound of the organ. Each drawbar represents on step in the harmonic series-- from left to right-- the fundamental, the octave above, the fifth above that, the fourth above that (which is two octaves above the fundamental) and so on.... Sometimes reducing the second harmonic and adding a touch more of the third harmonic can give the organ enough presence without it taking up so much space in a mix.

EQ's are fun to play with, but the object is not to really "notice" that they are being used. It should just sound right. They serve a mix best when they are used to duck certain frequencies rather than used to add frequencies, but a good digital EQ can work well when the additive method is used without adding too much unwanted noise to the mix. For example, say your vocal sounds dull. Instead of adding 3-4k (which *can* help bring out the consonants in a vocal lyric) try cutting a little in the 400-500 hz range for a female vocal and 200-250hz in a male vocal. Listen to how the highs jump out without boosting them. It's a different way of listening. But always make your decision based upon what else is competing for space in your mix in the same register. Best thing to do is to get your main chordal sound (rhythm guitar or piano) sounding good, then leave it alone for a good while (to keep a sonic point of reference or orientation) as you graft additional instruments into the mix.
Tom Calan wrote: The instruments I have used w/o effects from MIDI modules, that I've added a touch of reverb to (e.g. RenVerb Studio A at around 10 % wet/dry), always sound centered and OK but not "ambient", while the tracks using the MIDI module effects sound fat, deep, and spacious but usually oddly too far back or front or otherwise not in the same room with or in sync with sounds I processed myself in Waves. Suddenly I'm thinking this might all boil down to the early reflections. I think I need to really drill down on learning about reverb a LOT, rather than just messing with the wet/dry mix, and probably need to go back and strip out all of the MIDI module effects as a starting point.
EQ-ing your early reflections is another thing that many people overlook. I like UAD-1's Dreamverb because its interface allows you to graphically change the shape of a room-- trapezoid, semi-circle, etc., while also changing the reflective surfaces-- stone, wood, tile. This all can be done without having to understand the "numbers" right off. Some people are just gifted at calling out parameters off the top of their heads. I can do that after the fact, but I still have to experiment quite a bit to get the sound I want. I also use Altiverb, which not only has its own intuitive interface but it's one of the very best sounding reverbs out there, imho. I don't have to work nearly as hard to find that "third dimension". Some plugins just won't let you do what you want so easily. I think it's important to have one really good reverb as a turnkey 'verb, although some experts will argue that you can get great sounds with enough work with just about any reverb. That may be true, but I'd rather have my plugins working for me rather than me working for them.

Take a look at the WaveArts stuff for high-quality, CPU friendly effects of all sorts. Waves is cool, too-- if expensive.
Tom Calan wrote: Frodo if you have a moment, can I ask an additional question of you?
Why, certainly!
Tom Calan wrote: When doubling tracks as you described (hard left and right pan, then offsetting the timing a little) approximately how many milliseconds should separate the two tracks to get a subtle stereo double without being too much? On a piece that's 102 bpm I've been trying out 4/480 to 24/480 of a beat. I think this translates to 8-30 milliseconds of offset. In the middle sounds about right to my ear - 12/480 of a beat at 102 bpm, or 15-ish ms. Is that about right or am I being too conservative with the doubling? Is there an "official solution" for routine instrument doubling?
Rule #1 is "there are no rules". For as many ways there are to do it "wrong", there are thousands more ways to do it right. What's right is a matter of taste. Just study the Beatles recordings to see how many "rules" they broke. And so much of what they did "wrong" sounds so fantastic.

Offsets rely entirely on the wave activity in your particular track. For one session the guitar may vibrate a certain way but differently on another session. What offset works best is the one that gives you a feeling in your gizzard that just says YES, THAT'S IT!! You've done the right thing so far-- and it's most encouraging to read that you have found some value in defining the extremes first then going for something in between. Like Three Bears-- some settings will be too hot, some will be too cold, but there will always be that one setting that will strike your ears as being "just right".

The question to ask yourself at this point are:

1. If the offset sounds okay, how does it play in the mix?
2. If it gets lost in the mix, what other elements are there that compete with the offset guitars? If there's an electric piano in the track, for example, try narrowing the rate and/or width of its chorus effect (if any) so that it doesn't clash with the natural chorusing of the offset guitar part.
3. Does the offset bring out the best quality of the guitar?
4. Does the offset technique in general contribute to ear fatigue and predictability over the duration of the track? Is the sound of the guitar always musically interesting? If so, try a mono-to-stereo chorus instead of the offset.
Tom Calan wrote: Also, is there any advantage, when doubling, to eq'ing or adjusting the volume of one side (e.g. left) to create some differentiation in the sound, or is the whole idea to have exactly the same sound on both sides?

Thanks...
The idea again is to get the effect YOU want. The Beatles are again a good example of how rules can be broken and still work effectively. Exactly the same sound has its merits where an equal weight on both sides of center is desired, but lets say that you have two clean strats playing short rhythmic figures against one another. You *could* pan them, say, 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock in the mix with their delays or reverb effects perfectly centered-- or shooting back and forth across center, if you like that sort of thing. That would be one way to have some separation with enough "glue" to connect them musically-- ie: having the volume of one side louder or softer than the other.

I would never discourage any mixing technique that will render some happy accident, but perhaps for starters one should always consider at least a balance of musical and sonic activity coming out of both speakers. I've done mixes where the strat was playing some pretty rhythmic fast notes. This was panned slightly left of center, but the right side seemed a tad inactive. I panned the percussion a little to the right of center-- not far, but just enough so that the brain perceived a balance of musical activity on both sides-- same sort of fast notes playing on either side, even though they were different instruments. In that respect, it's not necessary that each instrument span an equal amount on either side of center-- but there are many ways to balance and distribute the musical activity in a mix without having each instrument taking up an even amount of space left/right of center.

Gosh-- mixing! I think we've opened a Pandora's Box here! :P

Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 5:07 pm
by emulatorloo
wylie1 wrote:emulatorloo: Do you also own OZONE 3?
I was looking for a comparison ,I'm working on a project now that has to go out for mastering.
No I don't have it, but I have been interested in it too

like Rick says, download it and try it out! I am going to do the same. :

http://www.izotope.com/products/audio/ozone/

There is a link on the right that says "Try It!"

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