Strange Mac PB
Moderator: James Steele
Strange Mac PB
Hey folks:
We just suffered a city-wide power outage. I was using my laptpop at the time (PB G4 1.5), so I decided to save the battery power and shut it down pretty much right away.
So, the power comes back on, everything is plugged in. The battery is recharging up from the 5-10% battery power it used.
Well, the screen is now very dark-- I can barely see as a type this right now. The brightness controls are giving me the old N/A sign: a circle with a line through it. The display was fine even when the power went out and the battery kicked in. It was only after restarting with the power supply connected that the display went dim.
I've restarted and reparied permissions a couple of times and am literally "in the dark" here.
Oh-- the Displays feature in System Prefs is wide open (ie: the brightness slider).
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Frodo
We just suffered a city-wide power outage. I was using my laptpop at the time (PB G4 1.5), so I decided to save the battery power and shut it down pretty much right away.
So, the power comes back on, everything is plugged in. The battery is recharging up from the 5-10% battery power it used.
Well, the screen is now very dark-- I can barely see as a type this right now. The brightness controls are giving me the old N/A sign: a circle with a line through it. The display was fine even when the power went out and the battery kicked in. It was only after restarting with the power supply connected that the display went dim.
I've restarted and reparied permissions a couple of times and am literally "in the dark" here.
Oh-- the Displays feature in System Prefs is wide open (ie: the brightness slider).
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Frodo
6,1 MacPro, 96GB RAM, macOS Monterey 12.7.6, DP 11.33
Have you tried zapping the PRAM?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
Also the power management may be corrupted:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
Also the power management may be corrupted:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
828x MacOS 15.5 M1 Studio Max 1TB 64G DP11.34
- sdemott
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:01 pm
- Primary DAW OS: MacOS
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reset the NV-RAM (non volatile RAM) because it will reset your video card as well as the PRAM.
reboot while holding cmd-opt-o-f
the system will drop into open firmware with a ">" prompt.
then type:
>reset-nvram
>set-defaults
>reset-all
the system will reboot and if this is a problem of PRAM or NVRAM all should be fine.
reboot while holding cmd-opt-o-f
the system will drop into open firmware with a ">" prompt.
then type:
>reset-nvram
>set-defaults
>reset-all
the system will reboot and if this is a problem of PRAM or NVRAM all should be fine.
-Steve
Not all who wander are lost.
Not all who wander are lost.
- MIDI Life Crisis
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You may want to reset your PMU as well. Just a thought...Frodo wrote:The hobbit is humbled!
Genius is nothing without generosity!
Thanks cuttime and sdemott. Because of your collective genius and generoisty I'm back in stride once again--!
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I haven't cracked open the PB G4 yet-- it has a great little window strictly for changing RAM, which is all I've done so far. When I upgraded my PB G3 years ago, I remember having to crawl under all sorts of things-- some parts were quite stubborn when taking them out-- other parts were stubborn getting back in. I hope the G4 is a little different-- easier to access. It's a 17"-er, so that alone might make it easier.sdemott wrote:you are most welcome.
If you can be relatively gentle and are somewhat handy, the process of a HD swap isn't too bad. Check out ifixit.com for the take-apart docs.
I have it down to about 30 minutes for the whole shebang now.
6,1 MacPro, 96GB RAM, macOS Monterey 12.7.6, DP 11.33
- sdemott
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:01 pm
- Primary DAW OS: MacOS
- Location: Connecticut
- Contact:
Yeah - the nice thing about the 17" is that there is a little less "stacking" internally, because of the extra room.
It's really not too bad to get inside, the hardest part is a "hidden" latch on the left side of the CD intake slot, but once you do it once or twice you "get the gist" so-to-speak and it's not too bad. You will spend a few minutes on that alone the first time around, but it's not too bad & the take-apart docs are very explicit.
A couple of hints-
Get a bunch of small cups/bowls/tupperware for separating the screws by step. Saves a lot of trial and error when putting it alll back together.
Be careful with the rubber feet/spacers on the HD - you need them for the new HD to "lock it in".
Before starting, discharge all static energy by touching something metal/conductive & try not to do the swap on a carpet or while wearing anything static producing (sweaters and the like). Wear shoes or go barefoot - no socked feet on the floor.
It's really not too bad to get inside, the hardest part is a "hidden" latch on the left side of the CD intake slot, but once you do it once or twice you "get the gist" so-to-speak and it's not too bad. You will spend a few minutes on that alone the first time around, but it's not too bad & the take-apart docs are very explicit.
A couple of hints-
Get a bunch of small cups/bowls/tupperware for separating the screws by step. Saves a lot of trial and error when putting it alll back together.
Be careful with the rubber feet/spacers on the HD - you need them for the new HD to "lock it in".
Before starting, discharge all static energy by touching something metal/conductive & try not to do the swap on a carpet or while wearing anything static producing (sweaters and the like). Wear shoes or go barefoot - no socked feet on the floor.
-Steve
Not all who wander are lost.
Not all who wander are lost.