The head phone switch is pretty dirty, as is the main volume switch.
Even in a stationary position the headphone volume emits a low
(weird) hissing noise into my phones.
Anyone take apart a 2408mk3 to clean it?...Advice?
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Discussion related to installation, configuration and use of MOTU hardware such as MIDI interfaces, audio interfaces, etc. for Mac OSX
Discussion related to installation, configuration and use of MOTU hardware such as MIDI interfaces, audio interfaces, etc. for Mac OSX
sdfalk,
I've thought about it, but my mk3 is my main interface right now, plus it's sort of hard to get to where it is right now. My volume knob has been "wiggly" for a while, so I'm extra careful with it. Mine feels more like it needs to be braced and/or re-soldered rather than just cleaned.
Assuming you're not concerned with warranty mess, if you go inside it, I'd recommend carefully replacing the pots, rather than cleaning. They don't feel like they have a very rugged support. They should both be standard analog taper, probably a common value, and are only three large pins. Analogs usually have a letter "A" in the label, but I've heard that long ago some of the linears also used that (very rare). With luck, you may be able to get a couple panel mount pots with actual threads and a nut to go on the rack face, and you'd be invincible. If you had to, you might be able to jump them to the three board connections with some short 2-lead shielded wire or something. If you make decent connections and use short wire, I can't see it being any worse off than it started.
I guess if you get in there you'll know whether any of that's safe to do (or impossible), so let us know how it turns out. Also, I've successfully removed "thru hole" IC's before, but if you want to replace the crappy pots and want be extra safe, you could probably just snip the legs somewhere low, near the board and solder to the leftovers, rather than risking losing a connection inside a multi-layer PCB (doubtful on those big legs). You'll probably be able to see which side the traces are on anyway.
( -Don't mean to insult you if you already knew all that stuff )
Good luck and please don't get shocked!
-George
PS- I forgot, a ground should be at one side of the pots, probably with audio at the other side and at the center (wiper). You'll probably be able to tell who's ground, or check it with a meter. Use that as the shield if you can. They should also be duals (stereo), so you may need more leads, unless that mono post in here turns out true.![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
I've thought about it, but my mk3 is my main interface right now, plus it's sort of hard to get to where it is right now. My volume knob has been "wiggly" for a while, so I'm extra careful with it. Mine feels more like it needs to be braced and/or re-soldered rather than just cleaned.
Assuming you're not concerned with warranty mess, if you go inside it, I'd recommend carefully replacing the pots, rather than cleaning. They don't feel like they have a very rugged support. They should both be standard analog taper, probably a common value, and are only three large pins. Analogs usually have a letter "A" in the label, but I've heard that long ago some of the linears also used that (very rare). With luck, you may be able to get a couple panel mount pots with actual threads and a nut to go on the rack face, and you'd be invincible. If you had to, you might be able to jump them to the three board connections with some short 2-lead shielded wire or something. If you make decent connections and use short wire, I can't see it being any worse off than it started.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
I guess if you get in there you'll know whether any of that's safe to do (or impossible), so let us know how it turns out. Also, I've successfully removed "thru hole" IC's before, but if you want to replace the crappy pots and want be extra safe, you could probably just snip the legs somewhere low, near the board and solder to the leftovers, rather than risking losing a connection inside a multi-layer PCB (doubtful on those big legs). You'll probably be able to see which side the traces are on anyway.
( -Don't mean to insult you if you already knew all that stuff )
Good luck and please don't get shocked!
-George
PS- I forgot, a ground should be at one side of the pots, probably with audio at the other side and at the center (wiper). You'll probably be able to tell who's ground, or check it with a meter. Use that as the shield if you can. They should also be duals (stereo), so you may need more leads, unless that mono post in here turns out true.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
- sdfalk
- Posts: 2514
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:01 pm
- Primary DAW OS: MacOS
- Location: Vancouver BC
- Contact:
Thank you very much for your advice.
No insult taken.
You (obviously) have more experience with this sort of thing then
I do, and I appreciate the time you took in writing your reply.
Regarding the volume controls (both main out volume and headphone)
they appear to be solid, so I'm hoping a good cleaning is all that will
be necessary.
Thanks again
Stephen Falk
No insult taken.
You (obviously) have more experience with this sort of thing then
I do, and I appreciate the time you took in writing your reply.
Regarding the volume controls (both main out volume and headphone)
they appear to be solid, so I'm hoping a good cleaning is all that will
be necessary.
Thanks again
Stephen Falk