MOTUnation.com

Didn't find the Tianma part. Hmm...
But a complete display replacement tutorial! -- Merci Greg Baumont!
(Google translation)

Yep, problem is that rs part is not in the uk, only the yel/green one

Jens Groh wrote:Didn't find the Tianma part. Hmm...
But a complete display replacement tutorial! -- Merci Greg Baumont!
(Google translation)

Ok the nice folks at RS uk have ordered from France.

Next phase begins.

Ok all done

Thanks to everyone for their help

Peace
Matt Hooper

topaz wrote:Ok all done

What, just one day later? Wow, congratulations.

Thanks to rs uk, arrived from France next day.

I finally did replace my display, with that Displaytech part. ... Works!

One thing that I think is not mentioned in the tutorial: I noticed that, with the new display unit mounted on the back side of the front PCB, the latter comes a little closer to the front panel, namely by the amount of the thickness of the old display unit PCB. I think this is not good at all, because front PCB and front panel need a certain spacing to fit into two appropriate grooves in the case. Therefore, I corrected the spacing using some washers. But now the screws are too short. If the washers were just a little thicker, the screws wouldn't grip anymore. If you are in the USA, simply find some slightly longer screws. I didn't, since non-metric screws are rare here. A little glue helped to at least take my worries that the screws could fall off.

This is how it looks:

Nice one, beats £100

Jens Groh wrote:And I just discovered that some even have swapped pins for the backlight power supply! For the one sold by RS, plus is on the top corner, same as the one siepino found. So, if he needed to swap those pins, too, we'll need to do so, too.

Just to make it complete for whoever may want to reproduce the same replacement with the mentioned part from rs-online.com: There was no reversal needed for the backlight polarity here (whatever I speculated before): Plus on the top pin, minus on the bottom pin. And (in case this was not clear): the replacement part has no connector pins, so you need some soldering skills and mount a standard 7-by-2 header, as well as two additional single pins for the backlight, to the replacement part. Refer to the tutorial linked to above.
(edit: corrected my mistake "14-by-2 header")

It' gone darker again! Yes, the new part. How is that possible, with LED backlight??

Same, mine went dark soon after.

Could be in the power supply. Or did we kill the LEDs by exceeding the specified 3.4V / 20mA?

I'm not technical only practical. Sorry.

Too bad these fixes failed... I've got a Travler mk3 with a dark LED. Wondering if any one has tried the LUMEX LCM-S01602DSF/C replacement with success?